Commando

Jacket

submitted by Kylash

feedback: kylash_327@yahoo.com

Click on any of the images below to see a larger format.

Peacekeeper Commando Jacket

Fabrics and Notions:

1.5 yards of burgundy/maroon-ish vinyl
1.5 yards of black vinyl
Quilter’s Grid interfacing with 1” squares
2 spools of black thread
4 parachute/quick-release clips
Approximately 20 yards of black piping (found in the upholstery section)
Scrap of black cotton interlock or something similar (for collar facing)

For the base pattern on this jacket, I used New Look 6168. I made a test jacket out of cheap batiste just to make sure everything fit right and to make minor adjustments before cutting the vinyl, but also to cut out the side and back panels that the pattern doesn’t feature. I loosely constructed the test jacket first, marked where the panels should be, then cut those out from the jacket, thus making a pattern. So, I had the front (red) panels, the side (black) panels, and then the back was split up into panels to accommodate the piping. Once I had the patterns cut out from the test jacket, I laid those on the vinyl and cut them out, with about a 5/8” seam allowance.

Definitely the most time-consuming portion of this costume is the black topstitching on the sleeves and front red panels. It took me approximately 1 hour each for the sleeves, and a little under an hour for both the front panels. To do this, I cut the Quilters Grid from the same patterns as the sleeves and front panels, and ironed those on to the wrong side of the vinyl. Then using the lines on the grid as a guide, I stitched on every line, and then halfway between each line, making the spacing between lines .5”.

Since the straight grid cannot be used for the collar, I measured half-inch spaces all down the curve of the collar, and then stitched those in. My sewing machine couldn’t handle .5” thick foam, so the collar is just flat lines.
Next I measured how wide the straps needed to be for the clips (men’s jackets are bigger, so I used 2” clips, women’s are smaller, so 1”), and then cut them out (8 total, four for each side) but an inch wider than what they needed to be. I then folded over ½” on each side and sewed it straight, making it the correct width, and with finished edges. Then I measured where each strap needed to be on the stitched red panels with even spacing, and sewed those on the outer edges.

The next step was the piping. The piping goes on the outer edges of the red panels until it meets the sleeves, and then continues up towards the collar. The back piping angles up and outward from the hem to meet the sleeves, then also goes toward the collar. (When I cut out the panels for the back, the middle panel looked somewhat coffin-shaped, if that helps.)

Once the piping was added to the red panels and the black back panels, the black side panels for the front were sewn on to the red panels, and the black side panels for the back were sewn on to the back panel, completing a full front and back, as the pattern originally intended. The jacket was then sewn according to the pattern.

Once the jacket was sewn and the collar was on, the raw edges were finished with piping. I started the piping at the back of the collar, and continued it all around the edges of the jacket until it met up again at the back of the collar. Piping was also added to hem the sleeves. A strip of black cotton interlock was cut to about the size of the collar and sewn on the inside as a facing, and to cover the inside seam from the piping.

Now that the jacket was finished, I added the clips and adjusted for fit, and then hand-sewed the straps to the jacket, following the lines previously on the straps from the hemming.

Click here to see full image of the finished product.